Mexico Viejo

When Esmael Perez drove from San Angelo to Georgia to visit family back in 2021, he noticed an abandoned restaurant on the side of I-20. It sparked his interest, and he thought about that place for the rest of his visit. On his way back through Texas, he stopped to take a look. 

Perez is in a family of restauranteurs. His relatives own restaurants in Texas, Georgia, and Tennessee. He worked in restaurants in Guadalajara, Mexico, before moving back to the States to work in his family’s restaurant in San Angelo. As he learned the business, he desired to bring the recipes he learned in his training in Mexico to start his own restaurant. Maybe this was his chance. 

There was no number posted on that abandoned building to call, so he did some digging. He called the city offices and found that the owner lives in Los Angeles. After a phone call that first ended in rejection, he did not give up hope. About a year later, the owner contacted him again and agreed to work with him. They signed contracts, and Perez got to work. He moved to Abilene from San Angelo in late 2022 and opened the restaurant in January of 2023. “The owner came back again when we opened the restaurant to eat our food,” Perez said. “He said it was good!” 

When guests walk in Mexico Viejo, they are welcomed by the bright colors of happy murals. A portrait of Emiliano Zapato graces the wall by the entrance. He was the Mexican Revolutionary who led the fight for land and liberty for the poor and oppressed in the early 1900s. Perez bears an uncanny resemblance to Zapato as they both sport a commanding mustache. 

The menu has all the traditional Mexican dishes, like enchiladas, fajitas, and burritos, but Perez recommends the Pina Hawaiian, which is fajita meat and veggies on top of a warmed pineapple. The Molca Jete is also unique with various grilled meats, cactus, and jalapenos in their special sauce, served in a lava rock bowl – a molcajete! (The special sauce recipe is under lock and key.) The bar serves traditional Cantaritos, a Mexican cocktail, in addition to other alcoholic beverages.  

The patio is inviting, with plans to install two televisions. Warm summer nights would be a great time to gather with family and friends to enjoy a meal out there and watch a game. The guacamole is freshly made and served in a molcajete bowl. It is absolutely delicious and large enough to share. 

Post-pandemic times are tough. “It’s a little bit difficult to find supplies,” Perez said. “A lot of places don’t have a lot in stock. We have been ordering online because it’s cheaper. I used to buy everything at stores, but prices have gone up.” In this age of instant gratification, waiting for food to cook can be frustrating as well. A little more kindness and grace are much appreciated. 

Perez is passing along the restauranteur knowledge to his four children who are learning the business. His youngest seems especially interested. Running a business that is open twelve to thirteen hours a day, every day, is hard work. But Perez explains, “When you put it in your mind to work all day, you do it!” His strong work ethic and desire to bring authentic Mexican meals to Abilene will surely be a good fit for our community. 

By Laura Daulton