Locally-owned restaurants have always been a staple in the Abilene culture, but lately some of the newer locally-owned dining options in town have a distinctively non-local flavor. Whether you’re craving gyros and baklava, Panang curry chicken, or a taste of Cuban chicken and pota-toes – a palate for international food is getting easier to satisfy right here in town. We’ve sampled a few ourselves to give you some ideas for your own Around-the-World tour of Abilene cuisine.
Middle East Restaurant
By Casey Hatcher
Sabah Hammoodi is the proud owner of Middle East Restaurant on South 27th St., just north of Hastings. And when it comes to his feelings about his new home country of America, “proud” might actually be an understatement. His love of the U.S. is displayed throughout the restaurant with an American flag signed by members of Dyess Air Force Base, as well as the wall decor of clippings of news stories heralding the capture of Saddam Hussein. Strike up a conversation, and he will proudly tell you of the ways he aided U.S. forces when he lived in Iraq – a story worth hearing.
Born and raised in Baghdad, Hammoodi was recruited as a translator for the U.S. Army in 2003. However, in 2005 he was threatened by opposing forces, which led him to flee to Jordan. Ham-moodi was captured and tortured, though he eventually escaped and returned to his family. In 2009, he and his family moved to Colorado before settling down in Abilene and opening Middle East.
The Gyro Sandwich is an essential menu item to try when visiting Middle East. This beef and lamb combination is seasoned with special spices, slowly flame-broiled and served on pita bread with tzatziki sauce, lettuce and onion. You won’t be disappointed. If you’re up for a chal-lenge, try topping off your meal off with a piece of baklawa/baklava and a shot of the strongest coffee you will ever taste—Sabah’s Arabic coffee. Though it has a texture of thick hot chocolate, this coffee is as strong and bold as they come. Consider yourself dared!
Some of Middle East’s most faithful customers are members of Dyess Air Force Base. They return to his restaurant weekly for authentic food and great conversation. Join them at Middle East. Meet Hammoodi, enjoy a gyro sandwich, and support an Abilenian who has already done so much for America.
Middle East is located at 4621 S. 14th St. and open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.
El Pulgarcito de America
By Casey Hatcher
If you’ve never tried authentic Salvadoran food, make your way over to South 7th, just across from Safety City, to a little family-owned eatery, El Pulgarcito de America. Translated “Tom Thumb of the Americas,” the name is a common phrase used to describe El Salvador – the smallest country in Central America.
Serving both Mexican and Salvadoran dishes, El Pulgarcito caters to a variety of tastes. The restaurant is often filled with both returning admirers and first-time guests. The sense of family is obvious in the restaurant’s genial atmosphere. With plenty of tables to go around, El Pulcarcito is a welcoming spot for families and groups of friends.
For those inclined to try a dish native to El Salvador, we recommend an order of pupusas – thick, hand-made corn tortillas stuffed with your choice of cheese, beans and a variety of braised meat combinations. The zucchini and cheese pupusa I tried was delightful. For those looking for a meat combination, the pork with cheese option comes highly recommended as well. El Pulgarcito is a great place for a taste of El Salvador.
El Pulgarcito de America is located at 2502 S. Seventh St. and open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Krua Thai
By Casey Hatcher
A drive to the intersection of South 7th and Leggett will land you at one of Abilene’s newer Thai restaurants – Krua Thai (pronounced “crew-uh”). If you blink you just might miss it, but once in-side, this eatery is bright, intimate, and beaming with passion.
Thidarat Suebtep is a 31-year-old entrepreneur from Surin,Thailand. A graduate of Bangkok University with a degree in business finance, Suebtep learned the food industry when her moth-er ran a restaurant for ten years. In 2010 she moved to Abilene, and with the help of Joe Luna, a native Abilenian, they opened Krua, meaning “kitchen”, in July 2014 in hopes of sharing their love of Thai food with the rest of Abilene.
The ordering decision can be difficult. While one can never go wrong with a staple like Pad Thai, Suebtep recommended her version of Panang Curry Chicken, and it was fabulous. Panang cur-ry is a traditional popular dish in Thailand, offered at most restaurants. The Panang curry paste is mixed with coconut milk, lime leaves and freshly seasoned, and the chicken is slow cooked to allow the meat’s natural flavors to blossom. When mixed with a side of white rice, the dish is incredible. Add an appetizer of Ka Nam Jeep (ground chicken and shrimp wrapped in a wonton skin), and you have quite the meal.
Krua Thai is located at 790 S. Leggett and open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Don Luis Cafe
By Casey Hatcher
Those who remember Gardski’s Loft on North First St. will feel a familiar connection to the loca-tion of Don Luis Cafe, Abilene’s newest Cuban/Mexican restaurant. This family-owned restau-rant is dripping with heritage and flavor. Owner Jorge Labrador, a Cuban native, has worked in the restaurant business around the Big Country for several years. His desire to bring Cuban cui-sine to the area led him to open the doors to Don Luis in Buffalo Gap back in 2012 before relo-cating it to Abilene this past October.
Family heritage runs deep in this cafe. Born in Spain, Labrador moved to Cuba as a young child before relocating with his family to the United States as a teenager. Blessed with Cuban chefs for grandparents, he grew up immersed in the art of traditional recipes, food preparation, and service. The restaurant is named for his grandfather, and his parents helped procure family rec-ipes from Cuba. His aunt and cousin oversee the kitchen, preparing flavorful dishes for hungry patrons. Family photos adorn the walls with memories from years past, a constant reminder of the personal connection to loved ones. Live music on Friday nights, a bar, and a back room for parties are just a few of the extra amenities Don Luis has to offer.
When it came time to choose a Cuban dish, Labrador recommended the chicken and potatoes, a family favorite. This traditional meal is a Cuban-style chicken fricassee (middle ground be-tween a sauté and stew), mixed with potatoes, then paired with a side of white rice and beans. It is not your run of the mill recipe. This is an intimate meal carefully prepared by individuals com-mitted to preserving a family recipe and heritage. As you’ll find when you visit, Don Luis Cafe is simply a family ready to serve you a homemade meal.
Don Luis Cafe is open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily at 3370 N. First St.
Niko’s Gyros and Subs
By Nancy Roberts
You might not expect to expect to find a great Greek meal in Abilene, Texas, but Fred Bundy and co-owner, Jimmy, an Albanian native, have brought authentic gyros and other Greek specialties to an ordinary shopping strip on Rebecca Lane.
Bundy had been stationed in Germany and loved one of the local gyro shops, and Jimmy worked with relatives at the original Joe’s, located near Hardin-Simmons University. Sev-eral years later, the two connected and begin to ponder future restaurant endeavors. After several meetings and scribbled notes and plans on a napkin, Niko’s Gyros and Subs was born.
This past summer’s opening saw lines out the door. Abilenians were ready for Greek food! Along with gyros – made of fresh pitas, sauces and perfectly seasoned meats cooked on a spit (vertical grill/rotisserie) – the Greek plate has become a favorite. It features a generous pile of thinly sliced meat (a beef/lamb combination); a soft, warm pita; a variety of black and green olives; cucumbers, tomatoes and of course, tzatziki sauce. Each dished is served with honest eagerness to please and the hope that you’ll return.
Niko’s Gyros and Subs is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. at 3354 Rebecca Lane.
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